Post the launch of the chart-topping Paradoxe fragrance last year, murmurs of Prada Beauty’s re-boot have been circulating the industry for some time now. One colleague named it, ‘beauty’s worst kept secret’, as hints were dropped over on @pradabeauty last week.

Still, when the collection dropped on the 1st, the industry flocked to see how the offering differed from the numerous designer brands jumping onto the beauty scene since the close of the pandemic. This collection cuts through with its synergy of future-facing formulation, augmented reality applications, and age-old Prada-esque colour combinations.

The launch comes two years after L’Oréal’s acquisition of the beauty licence, which was previously held by Puig. And, 23 years after the brand’s first foray into skincare and cosmetics at the turn of the Millennium which brought monodose products to market, but soon folded.

Since January 2021, L’Oréal has launched two now-cult fragrances Luna Rossa Ocean and Prada Paradoxe whilst also maintaining the existing portfolio to appeal to the loyal Prada customer. Unbeknownst to us, throughout this period the brand snatched up make-up artist Lynsey Alexander, naming her Global Creative Makeup Artist, and Inès Marzat — aka Inès Alpha — a 3D makeup creator to propel their strategy into AR.

Speaking to WWD, Alexander shares how the pandemic was a time of invention: ‘Three years ago, the L’Oréal team came to me with pretty much a blank canvas of an idea for a brand… We have the heritage and all the incredible archives to look at from Mrs Prada, but from a beauty perspective, the slate was clean.’

From the ‘Saffiano leather textures, nylon swatches of fabric, archive prints’ that were sent to her, Alexander has worked with formulators and regulators at L’Oréal to create a three-step Skin range and a 34-piece cosmetics offering. Whilst the skincare products promise to ‘renew, regenerate, and reinforce’ via adaptogens, the colour products bring high-performance pigments.

Matte lipsticks – the brand will not be launching gloss, Mrs Prada’s orders – take centre stage in the initial rollout. ‘We’ve gone for hyper extremes… Mrs Prada hates glitter, which is music to my ears. So everything metallic and shiny has a grown-up, luxe quality,’ explained Alexander, before saying: ‘The concept was three neutral harmonies with one striking unexpected twist — sort of disruption of colour.’

It’s undeniable that the prices aren’t all accessible – ranging from £29.50 for a lipstick ‘treat’ up to £315 for the Prada Augmented Skin The Serum. However, that’s where the brand’s digital strategy comes in, Alongside the creation of various digital avatars on which Alpha has recreated physical makeup looks, L’Oréal has worked to create a ‘Skin Decoder’ and ‘Colour Explorer’, digital tools for customers to test products online.

Sure, the designer beauty brand market is saturated, but Prada Beauty’s amalgamation of old and new sets it apart – as much as its instantly recognisable mint green refillable packaging. But, at the heart of the new collection is one big question: ‘Would Miss Prada Wear it?’

Prada Beauty will be stocked in London’s Selfridges and Harrods as well as online at www.prada-beauty.com.